Jungle Boogie

I should have a tshirt that says "I survived a stay in the Amazon jungle", that is if I actually wore tshirts.  What I can say is "it was the best of times, it was the worst of times". 

The worst things were being so very hot that I constantly had sweat pouring down every inch of my body, the high humidity causing clothes to be constantly damp, the cockroaches that had to be killed every night before going to bed, and mosquitos. 

The best things, however, vastly outnumbered the worst things. The entire jungle experience was amazing. I saw dolphins for the first time in my life, and not just regular dolphins - we got to see pink dolphins.  I loved the sounds of the birds, particularly in the morning when the whole jungle comes alive with the different songs and sound, and I loved the peace and tranquility. 

This was an organized tour and while there each guest, or group of guests, had their own guide. Our guide was Tito.  He picked us up at our hotel in Iquitos, organized activities for us and accompanied us on all activities.  Activity choices included bird watching, hikes in the jungle day and night, looking for and swimming with the pink dolphins, fishing for piranha, night boat excursions on the river, visiting a village, and zip lining. I think there were a few more as well. 

The first activity we chose was the night jungle walk. Tito led the way with his machete into the inky darkness, the only lights being our flashlights.  It was very quiet and we didn't see much other than a tarantula and a couple of frogs but it was a neat experience.  Here I am in my rubber boots, which they supply, ready to go out on our night walk. 

 We also did a two hour day hike through the jungle where we saw frogs, tree squirrels, a couple of monkies, various insects and had a lesson in flora and fauna.  We learned about the medicinal and practical properties of various plants and roots.  

On our walk a woman from Los Angeles and her guide came with us.  In this photo the guide is explaining the cosmetic properties of this particular tree. 

We walked along trails and blazed our own as the guides cut away underbrush with their machetes. Much of the area was wet and muddy and at one point we had to cross a little stream on logs and I managed not to fall in. 

 

Dale was given a lesson in the use of a machete. 

We took a boat trip to see what we could see. We saw many different birds, none of whose names I can recall. When a bird was spotted the boat would be stopped so that photos could be taken and one of the guides would talk to us about the bird.  It was quite educational as well as fun.   It was during this excursion that we got to see a sloth. 

The pink dolphins were phenomenal. I had never known they existed. They are not as showy as regular   dolphins and it was difficult to get a photo but it was very easy to see that they definitely had bright pink on them.  There were 8 people on this tour and 4 of them jumped in and swam with the dolphins.  

To get to the lodge was a 4 hour speed boat trip along the Amazon and it's tributaries. There are several cabins, a dining room, kitchen, a hammock room, a quiet room and a wifi room. Yes, there was wifi  but with questionable reliability so we didn't use it. There was solar powered electricity so lighting was very dim and we were asked to participate in conserving energy. The bathrooms only had cold water but were modern and each cabin had a private bathroom. Water for the shower came directly from the Amazon and could not be used for drinking or brushing teeth.  Bottled water was supplied. 

The lodge is wood with thatched roofs and screens, and sits several feet above the ground with connecting walkways. 

We had meals supplied and they were announced by the beating of a drum. They were buffet style

and were varied and very delicious. 

Our last activity was a visit to a local community this morning before we left. We were able to visit with a couple of local residents as they picked fruits and another fellow invited us into his  home to see a typical Peruvian jungle home.  The homes are all elevated to prepare for eventual flooding and this home we went into had a walled and roofed sleeping quarters but otherwise there weren't walls. I couldn't believe they just wouldn't fall out of the living quarters from time to time. 

This photo shows their kitchen area. This shows the floor of their kitchen which is at least 6 to 8 feet above the ground and the boards are rotting and there are no walls.

Our walk about came to an abrupt end when a torrential downpour began. We took shelter where a couple of women were preparing lunch for the school children on an outdoor fire. Remember Tito was with us so we were able to stand by the fire and try to dry off. We were only in the rain for a couple of minutes but were completely drenched. We ended up helping prepare the food by stirring and Tito helped by removing the pots from the fire.  We had fun and the women were very friendly. 

Our jungle excursion ended by a two hour trip back to Iquitos by speedboat. Our trip to the jungle took four hours; this guy did it in two and that was in pouring rain. We pounded that water. If I was religious I think I would have crossed myself and done some praying, but as it was I put on my life jacket and read a book. 

Coming back into Iquitos we checked in for our last night at Casa Morey again and the room they put us in is what we asked for and is a perfect end to a perfect trip. There will be some activity tomorrow and it will get a separate post if it is worthy. We don't fly out until 2030 hours.  

Iquitos

We finally made it to Iquitos late yesterday afternoon, after a very long day spent at airports. Our flight was scheduled to leave at 0700 but at the last minute we were told it was cancelled and we had to pick up our bags, which had been checked, and stand in line to book another flight, which might not happen until the next day.  After standing in line for about 30 minutes Dale somehow got us to the front of the line with a flight booked for 1500 hours.  That meant a long wait but we at least had a flight. Two hours later we smiled gleefully as we passed our original line with people still waiting. 

The 1500 flight was delayed and we were concerned that we would not make the connection in Lima. There is no direct flight from Cusco to Iquitos so we had to fly back to Lima first.  You should have been there to see us literally running through the airport to catch our flight. I didn't know I could run that well. 

When we arrived in Iquitos the heat and the humidity hit us like the proverbial "tonne of bricks", reminiscent of our trips to Miami to visit Dawn.  In the past 24 hours we have had thunder, lightning, pouring rain, and sunshine, and through all this the high humidity, which leaves you dripping with sweat in just a few minutes. Makeup doesn't stay on and hair becomes frizzy making it difficult to look good but I have a feeling that no one is looking at me anyway. 

We checked into our hotel, the Casa Morey, which was built over a hundred years ago by a rubber baron. The bottom fell out of the rubber industry quickly as it was easier to harvest rubber from rubber plantations then to go into the jungle for it.  For years the former mansion was used for various purposes until four years ago it was turned into a hotel

The rooms are huge with maybe 20 foot ceilings and there has been a good effort to retain some of its former elegance. Our room is on the ground floor opening onto the pool.

Iquitos is only accessible by air or water. There are no roads into the area. There are cars but the main mode of transportation is via mottocarros, similar to the tuktuks in Cambodia. The pedestrian never has the right of way, not even in a designated crosswalk. 

During the height of the rubber boom many palatial buildings were constructed and today they still stand, a reminder of better times. The area is rundown.  Paint is peeling, tiles are cracked, sidewalks are full of holes and it is impoverished. 

There are foreigners, but not as many as in Cusco.  Some come strictly as tourists, others for "the medicine", "the cure", referring to ayahuasca, which is a brew you drink to find enlightenment. The brew is a psychedelic made from a jungle vine and there is mention of shamans and ceremonies, and finding your true self. We listened to four young guys talking about it at a restaurant. Sounds a bit like the 60s hippies and LSD. 

There are also a lot of single middle aged men and I am not sure what they are looking for but i could guess. There are the usual markets, souvenir vendors and people trying to sell you Amazon tours.  

Iquitos is on the Amazon, which is currently low. The rainy season will soon begin and by spring the Amazon will arise another 30 to 35 feet. The photo shows homes that will be floating homes when the water rises.  

When the sun sets, the verdant landscape that one looks out onto, becomes this inky blackness, lit up only by the occasional streak of lightning. It is quite eerie. Tomorrow we leave for two nights in the jungle. I cannot imagine what that will be like but I will blog about it when we return to Iquitos. 

Llama Land

The last two days have been comprised of walking and shopping. Yesterday we walked through some steep narrow streets where few tourists wander, up to San Cristobel, which offers some excellent views of the city.  On the large plaza surrounding the church were women selling hand crafted works and.....

......llamas with children  wanting "one sole" to have their picture taken. 

We stopped at a small market along the way but saved our shopping for today and our trip to Pisac.

Pisac is about 35 miles out of Cusco and we hired a taxi to take us there.  It was a short 30 minute drive on good paved roads with a good driver. Pisac is known for its Incan ruins, but also for its huge market, which was the draw for us today. 

 

The market was huge and very colorful. We did some shopping and bought food from the food vendors.  We had corn on the cob, stuffed peppers, empanadas.  Food always seems to taste better eaten on the street from street vendors. There were many families and children with their baby llamas wanting money for photos and we gave in. Who can resist holding these soft cuddly creatures. 

There was a restaurant in the market where the guinea pigs they cooked for you were on display in cute guinea pig houses. 

There were many tourists, mostly with tour buses and we noticed a lot of young "hippie" types, some of whom were selling their handicrafts and food in the market. Apparently this is an area that young people are drawn to in search of a Shangri-La. 

For the return trip home we thought we would take a bus for the low fee of six soles. The taxi ride had been 50 soles so this seemed like a good deal. We got on the bus to discover it was full and we would have to stand, probably the entire way.  I asked to be let off.  At that point a woman called out from a vehicle "Cusco"?  We said "si" and got into the back seat of a newer SUV with a man and woman.  We looked at each other wondering if it was a good idea but we were already in the vehicle. 

It was good.  They were friendly and chatty, the woman speaking a little English.  We gave them some chocolate and they gave us some bread. It turned out he was a police officer and she a nurse.  They made a stop along the highway and she got out and poured a bottle of Inca Cola on the ground, as some sort of tribute to Mother Earth.  We listened to Spanish music and we clapped along with the woman. They asked for 5 soles but not sure if it was each or for both, they got 10. 

It is early evening and we are ready to end the day as we have an early flight that will take us to Iquitos, and our jungle adventure.

Machu Picchu

Yesterday, when we awoke, mist hung low over the mountains, and it was very picturesque. Just before catching the bus to Machu Picchu it started to rain so we bought rain ponchos which we never had to use for as quickly as the rain came, it left just as quickly. 

There is a steady stream of buses going up to Machu Picchu throughout the day and although lines are long, it is a very efficient system and the wait time is almost nonexistent.  The road going up, is just that - going up, and up, a very narrow road with a lot of hairpin curves. Many areas are only wide enough for one bus and the other bus has to either back up or pull over dangerously close to the edge. The views, however, are spectacular when I was able to open my eyes and look.  I was thinking of the news report:  " Tour bus drives off road enroute  to Machu Picchu.  All passengers aboard died."

We hired a guide, Graciella, to ...well, guide us around the site.  She stopped frequently to explain the history and significance and engineering marvel of Machu Picchu, which was just what I needed to catch my breath.  If Dale had been the guide there probably would have been a lot less resting.  There are a lot of very steep stairs with rocks that have been worn smooth with all the foot traffic, making them slippery.  I must say, however, that despite the steepness and sheer height of the structures, it was lots of fun.  There were a lot of obvious seniors amongst the throngs of people, some even with canes, and some looking so exhausted I thought I was going to have to perform CPR. 

We spent four hours at the site and then climbed up to the guardhouse which gave us a good view of the entire site, showing us how far we had climbed. The tall peaked mountain in the photo is Wayna Picchu, which has a trail to the top, limited to 400 people a day, 200 at a time. I just stood at the bottom in awe at these tiny specks that were hikers.  This climb would only be for avid, seasoned hikers.  

All the grassy areas are kept neatly trimmed by llamas that live at the site. During mid morning, when we were there, we found them resting in a grassy area behind the guardhouse. We never seem to tire at looking at llamas and alpacas. 

Throughout the site there were several workers maintaining the integrity of site by cleaning the stones with a toothbrush.  This is apparently to rid the rocks of lichens that produce fungi.

This was an absolutely breathtaking experience with so many good photo opportunities. 

I thank Dale for liking me enough to share her vacation time with me.  

We left the site via bus back to Aguas Callientes, hot, sweaty, hungry, thirsty and tired. We had a few hours before the train left so we (of course) did some more walking.  I mean 4 hours climbing around Machu Picchu wasn't enough.  We sat in the plaza for a while and then went back to our hostel to pick up our bag and have some lunch. 

We caught Peru Rail to Poroy, the last stop before Cusco, and had to take a taxi in to Cusco, not getting home until close to 2200 hours.  The train ride provided us with food, drinks and entertainment in the form of a dancer in traditional costume, followed by a fashion show of Peruvian garments. 

That's all for now.  Tomorrow is another day in llama land.

To Ollantaytambo and Aguas Callientes

Yesterday we hired a private car, driven by Marco, to drive us to Ollantaytambo where we would catch a train to take us to Aguas Callientes, the gateway to Machu Picchu.  Marco did not speak English and we learned that saying "si" to his apparent suggestions was a good idea. He became not just our driver but also our tour guide. He stopped and pointed out great views and photo ops. The countryside was rich with red, fertile soil from which would come the crops that would appear in the markets. 

One of our stops was the village of Chinchero which preserves Inca traditions by their dress, language, and weaving. We watched the process of washing, dyeing, spinning and weaving yarn, while drinking coca tea. Dale and I got to try our hand at spinning.  The demonstration was obviously set up for tourists and was given by an English speaking girl. 

We had a few hours to spend in Ollantaytambo before catching the 2 hour train to Aguas Callientes so we did what we usually do - wander the streets and sit in the square watching Peruvian life. There was a religious parade through the plaza complete with a small band and a priest. We didn't find out the significance of this procession but it was interesting to watch. 

There was a large craft market that had all the usual Peruvian crafts but also these "dolls" and masks representing mother and father earth which I was strangely attracted to and now own one of. 

The end of the day was a two hour train ride via Inca Rail to Aguas Callientes. The train trip took us through rich vegetation and along a raging river and ended at the Super Tramp Hostal. We had a private room but had to share showers and bathrooms with young people.  Not quite my 'cup of tea' but it was clean and the people were friendly, and it was an experience.  

Join me tomorrow on my trip to Machu Picchu. 

Cusco

Buenos Dias from Cusco. We arrived yesterday morning via a one hour flight from Lima. While we saw very few tourists on our wanderings in Lima, this place is teeming with tourists. This is the major destination spot in Peru as it is the gateway to Machu Picchu.  That being said, most of the tourists do not appear to be English speaking. 

Cusco is nestled in the mountains at an elevation of around 11,000 feet, and the elevation is a factor to consider. One becomes more winded and headaches are a reality. Oxygen is readily available in hotels and in public areas. When we returned to our room last night there was a young woman in the lobby getting oxygen. For me, some Advil and being aware to walk slowly and take frequent breaks seems to be effective.  Within 24 hours I felt better. 

Cusco has many narrow cobblestone streets, some very steep. Our accommodation is up one of these streets and one has to almost plaster oneself against the buildings to avoid traffic. 

Tourists are accosted on all sides by people selling their wares. They don't take no for an answer easily.

There are people in traditional dress who let you take a photo with them and/or their llama for a fee.   I think it is well worth it to pay the fee as you get to cuddle the little lambs. I paid these women well and was able to get a few photos of and with them. 

We did manage to take a couple of photos of people without their knowledge. This man was sleeping on the church steps. 

We walked into many churches and through many plazas, but the highlight was the large market

that we went to twice. This market had all the usual items but it was unique in having more meat than others. Grotesque in one way but this is life in Peru. 

 

We were forced indoors this afternoon due to a downpour of rain. I think it has stopped so we shall venture out again. Tomorrow we are leaving Cusco for a couple of days, during which time we shall be going to Machu Picchu.  Probably no blogging until our return. 

There are many dogs roaming the streets and the markets. This one caught my attention. 

Adios