Llama Land

The last two days have been comprised of walking and shopping. Yesterday we walked through some steep narrow streets where few tourists wander, up to San Cristobel, which offers some excellent views of the city.  On the large plaza surrounding the church were women selling hand crafted works and.....

......llamas with children  wanting "one sole" to have their picture taken. 

We stopped at a small market along the way but saved our shopping for today and our trip to Pisac.

Pisac is about 35 miles out of Cusco and we hired a taxi to take us there.  It was a short 30 minute drive on good paved roads with a good driver. Pisac is known for its Incan ruins, but also for its huge market, which was the draw for us today. 

 

The market was huge and very colorful. We did some shopping and bought food from the food vendors.  We had corn on the cob, stuffed peppers, empanadas.  Food always seems to taste better eaten on the street from street vendors. There were many families and children with their baby llamas wanting money for photos and we gave in. Who can resist holding these soft cuddly creatures. 

There was a restaurant in the market where the guinea pigs they cooked for you were on display in cute guinea pig houses. 

There were many tourists, mostly with tour buses and we noticed a lot of young "hippie" types, some of whom were selling their handicrafts and food in the market. Apparently this is an area that young people are drawn to in search of a Shangri-La. 

For the return trip home we thought we would take a bus for the low fee of six soles. The taxi ride had been 50 soles so this seemed like a good deal. We got on the bus to discover it was full and we would have to stand, probably the entire way.  I asked to be let off.  At that point a woman called out from a vehicle "Cusco"?  We said "si" and got into the back seat of a newer SUV with a man and woman.  We looked at each other wondering if it was a good idea but we were already in the vehicle. 

It was good.  They were friendly and chatty, the woman speaking a little English.  We gave them some chocolate and they gave us some bread. It turned out he was a police officer and she a nurse.  They made a stop along the highway and she got out and poured a bottle of Inca Cola on the ground, as some sort of tribute to Mother Earth.  We listened to Spanish music and we clapped along with the woman. They asked for 5 soles but not sure if it was each or for both, they got 10. 

It is early evening and we are ready to end the day as we have an early flight that will take us to Iquitos, and our jungle adventure.

Machu Picchu

Yesterday, when we awoke, mist hung low over the mountains, and it was very picturesque. Just before catching the bus to Machu Picchu it started to rain so we bought rain ponchos which we never had to use for as quickly as the rain came, it left just as quickly. 

There is a steady stream of buses going up to Machu Picchu throughout the day and although lines are long, it is a very efficient system and the wait time is almost nonexistent.  The road going up, is just that - going up, and up, a very narrow road with a lot of hairpin curves. Many areas are only wide enough for one bus and the other bus has to either back up or pull over dangerously close to the edge. The views, however, are spectacular when I was able to open my eyes and look.  I was thinking of the news report:  " Tour bus drives off road enroute  to Machu Picchu.  All passengers aboard died."

We hired a guide, Graciella, to ...well, guide us around the site.  She stopped frequently to explain the history and significance and engineering marvel of Machu Picchu, which was just what I needed to catch my breath.  If Dale had been the guide there probably would have been a lot less resting.  There are a lot of very steep stairs with rocks that have been worn smooth with all the foot traffic, making them slippery.  I must say, however, that despite the steepness and sheer height of the structures, it was lots of fun.  There were a lot of obvious seniors amongst the throngs of people, some even with canes, and some looking so exhausted I thought I was going to have to perform CPR. 

We spent four hours at the site and then climbed up to the guardhouse which gave us a good view of the entire site, showing us how far we had climbed. The tall peaked mountain in the photo is Wayna Picchu, which has a trail to the top, limited to 400 people a day, 200 at a time. I just stood at the bottom in awe at these tiny specks that were hikers.  This climb would only be for avid, seasoned hikers.  

All the grassy areas are kept neatly trimmed by llamas that live at the site. During mid morning, when we were there, we found them resting in a grassy area behind the guardhouse. We never seem to tire at looking at llamas and alpacas. 

Throughout the site there were several workers maintaining the integrity of site by cleaning the stones with a toothbrush.  This is apparently to rid the rocks of lichens that produce fungi.

This was an absolutely breathtaking experience with so many good photo opportunities. 

I thank Dale for liking me enough to share her vacation time with me.  

We left the site via bus back to Aguas Callientes, hot, sweaty, hungry, thirsty and tired. We had a few hours before the train left so we (of course) did some more walking.  I mean 4 hours climbing around Machu Picchu wasn't enough.  We sat in the plaza for a while and then went back to our hostel to pick up our bag and have some lunch. 

We caught Peru Rail to Poroy, the last stop before Cusco, and had to take a taxi in to Cusco, not getting home until close to 2200 hours.  The train ride provided us with food, drinks and entertainment in the form of a dancer in traditional costume, followed by a fashion show of Peruvian garments. 

That's all for now.  Tomorrow is another day in llama land.

To Ollantaytambo and Aguas Callientes

Yesterday we hired a private car, driven by Marco, to drive us to Ollantaytambo where we would catch a train to take us to Aguas Callientes, the gateway to Machu Picchu.  Marco did not speak English and we learned that saying "si" to his apparent suggestions was a good idea. He became not just our driver but also our tour guide. He stopped and pointed out great views and photo ops. The countryside was rich with red, fertile soil from which would come the crops that would appear in the markets. 

One of our stops was the village of Chinchero which preserves Inca traditions by their dress, language, and weaving. We watched the process of washing, dyeing, spinning and weaving yarn, while drinking coca tea. Dale and I got to try our hand at spinning.  The demonstration was obviously set up for tourists and was given by an English speaking girl. 

We had a few hours to spend in Ollantaytambo before catching the 2 hour train to Aguas Callientes so we did what we usually do - wander the streets and sit in the square watching Peruvian life. There was a religious parade through the plaza complete with a small band and a priest. We didn't find out the significance of this procession but it was interesting to watch. 

There was a large craft market that had all the usual Peruvian crafts but also these "dolls" and masks representing mother and father earth which I was strangely attracted to and now own one of. 

The end of the day was a two hour train ride via Inca Rail to Aguas Callientes. The train trip took us through rich vegetation and along a raging river and ended at the Super Tramp Hostal. We had a private room but had to share showers and bathrooms with young people.  Not quite my 'cup of tea' but it was clean and the people were friendly, and it was an experience.  

Join me tomorrow on my trip to Machu Picchu. 

Cusco

Buenos Dias from Cusco. We arrived yesterday morning via a one hour flight from Lima. While we saw very few tourists on our wanderings in Lima, this place is teeming with tourists. This is the major destination spot in Peru as it is the gateway to Machu Picchu.  That being said, most of the tourists do not appear to be English speaking. 

Cusco is nestled in the mountains at an elevation of around 11,000 feet, and the elevation is a factor to consider. One becomes more winded and headaches are a reality. Oxygen is readily available in hotels and in public areas. When we returned to our room last night there was a young woman in the lobby getting oxygen. For me, some Advil and being aware to walk slowly and take frequent breaks seems to be effective.  Within 24 hours I felt better. 

Cusco has many narrow cobblestone streets, some very steep. Our accommodation is up one of these streets and one has to almost plaster oneself against the buildings to avoid traffic. 

Tourists are accosted on all sides by people selling their wares. They don't take no for an answer easily.

There are people in traditional dress who let you take a photo with them and/or their llama for a fee.   I think it is well worth it to pay the fee as you get to cuddle the little lambs. I paid these women well and was able to get a few photos of and with them. 

We did manage to take a couple of photos of people without their knowledge. This man was sleeping on the church steps. 

We walked into many churches and through many plazas, but the highlight was the large market

that we went to twice. This market had all the usual items but it was unique in having more meat than others. Grotesque in one way but this is life in Peru. 

 

We were forced indoors this afternoon due to a downpour of rain. I think it has stopped so we shall venture out again. Tomorrow we are leaving Cusco for a couple of days, during which time we shall be going to Machu Picchu.  Probably no blogging until our return. 

There are many dogs roaming the streets and the markets. This one caught my attention. 

Adios 

Picture This

Today was our last day in Lima and it was a more relaxed, leisure filled day.  We decided to walk to Burranco, which is one of Lima's 43 districts.  The beginning of the walk took us back along the ocean.  I never tire of an ocean breeze or an ocean view. 

Burranco is charming and picturesque. It is considered romantic and bohemian. We wandered the streets with nothing specific in mind, other than to see what we could discover.  We discovered quaint streets and a walkway to the ocean. 

There was an area of stately homes. 

There was a church that had been destroyed in an earthquake in 1940, that only had the front restored.  The unrestored portion shows the original construction materials, dating back to around 1750. 

We found a great patio at a restaurant where we had a leisurely lunch and coffees. 

Tomorrow morning we fly to Cusco.  Check back for more Peruvian adventures. 

Blood, Sweat and Fears

Domingo, November 2nd, a day that became very sunny and warm. We did a lot of walking - 10 miles to be precise, as told to me by my Fitbit.  Walking in the hot sunny day explains the 'sweat' part of my title. 

Firstly we walked to the sea (aka the Pacific Ocean). Lima is built on the cliffs above the ocean and we had wonderful views of the ocean, waves, surfers.  

Then we went to the huge market that sold all manner of food products and household items. The food products always have a strange allure, despite the various animal parts on display and fishy smells.  We ate in the market with the locals and I had some food that had some questionable meats in it but tasted quite good, although a little tough. ? Guinea Pig. I didn't want to know. 

While walking we happened upon a parade of a band on horseback, dressed in full regalia. 

Our highlight of the day was going to a bullfight, which has been on Dale's bucket list apparently.  The arena was in a poorer part of Lima and as we got closer we observed tenements on a steep hillside. 

When we got to the arena we mingled on the streets with the crowds of (mostly) men drinking beer and numbers of people grilling meats and frying donuts. Most of the people were obviously from the area and we were obviously in the minority being Caucasian, English speaking women. 

The bullfight. Fascinating and interesting but also brutal. Six bulls were killed.  As the matador performed his ritualistic moves, cheers of "ole" rang throughout the arena and when the bull dropped to it's death, with blood dripping from it, more cheers were heard. The "fears"were mine.  I feared for the bull's death, actually  hoping at one time that the bull would be the winner.  Matadors did get knocked down, one got thrown in the air and was was gored but all got up to continue to fight. 

One bull toppled over a picador and his horse. The bull was always the loser. 

A great day. Until the next post.....

Ole

Lima

Dale and I arrived in Lima, Peru late this morning.  The city is massive - 8.5 million.  Compare that to Vancouver's 600,000. It is loud with the honking of horns and traffic is chaotic.  There were a lot of vehicles that were old and rusty and beat-up looking, especially a lot of taxis. We had a ride in a taxi this afternoon that one could only describe as a death trap. I am not sure what was holding it together.  The interior was dirty, the seats were torn, and when I sat down I thought I was going to land on the ground. We chose better the next time. 

We checked into a beautiful room at a B&B that opens out onto an enclosed courtyard and I am very happy to call it home for a few days. 

I think I should have spent more time learning Spanish.  Every other place I have been I tried to learn some of the language only to find English widely spoken.  I was surprised at how little "Inglis" was spoken today but we managed to get by, thanks mostly to Dale. 

We spent the afternoon going to the Historic Centre of Lima and looking at the buildings, marveling at the cathedrals and taking a guided tour of the San Francisco Monastery and it's catacombs. The photo shows skulls and bones laid to rest at the bottom of a "well".  

We did the usual North wandering through parks and plazas. There is a Parque Kennedy, that is in the Miraflores district that we are staying in, that is home to about 80 cats that roam the park.  They are taken care of by volunteers and look healthy and happy. This evening we found many of them sitting by  lights, possibly for the warmth.  This was also the park that featured a lot of artists selling their paintings. I am sure I shall own a new piece of art before the end of my trip. 

The weather is perfect with temperatures hovering in the mid to high teens. Cool enough to be great for endless walking and warm enough for outside eating. Time to get a good nights sleep as last night was spent on the plane. 

BLou